MArtine Rose’s studio is so new that you can still taste the paint in the air. Our spacious rooms are comfortable in a 19th-century industrial building in Crouch Hill, north London. But Ross was worried. “I think this place, this studio, is very smart. I do think: ‘well, am I going to start doing some really nice things now? ‘”
The worry is understandable. Menswear designer has become an international name with 10 years of successful experience. She was desperate to explore the idea of men’s wear: to twist the uniforms of traditional overalls and subcultural tribes into glamorous clothes. Finally, in the past year or so, she began to receive due attention.
Now men have more fashion, more fashion, her extraordinary wide-legged pants, oversized coats, and the logo tie pins and recycled dad jackets seem to be desirable rather than extreme. Roses are now in fashion inventory at Barneys and Matches in New York. “I’ve always been a big fan of Martine Rose,” said Damien Paul, the men’s wear shop owner. “We launched her brand in January, and her city’s mix of shirts and sweat has had an incredible resonance with our customers. Martine hit the best spot before the curve and set up an interesting man’s aesthetic. This is a rare gift. ”
Ross is now the most influential fashion designer. Demna Gvasalia is known as part of the Vetements collective, but his work as creative director of the French balenciaga label has cemented his reputation. Ross is now an advisor to the men’s collections.
Anyone who CARES about Ross’s own brilliant career will think that all these changes – bigger places, bigger business plans – will change what she does. She has been pushing the system since her first collection ten years ago. One collection is inspired by second-hand clothes, and the other includes only one piece of clothing. In general, her work shows up in manly signs – that is, uniforms, football and club culture – and she shows off her designs, such as devices and shorts, on the walls of indoor climbing. Once she’s really angry with all the fashion editors, she shows a collection on three models and slowly spins the wheel. Before she left her studio in tottenham, she even staged a show in the nearby seven sisters’ indoor market. The owner of the stall, as a model, does their business on the walkway.
It’s a long way from the west end. In an industry that likes timetables and traditional ways of doing things, rose has always found it counter-productive. But she happily admits that many of these are unsafe.
“I wish I could say I know it’s going to work, or I’m very concerned, but I think it’s mostly fear,” she said. “I’ve invested too much in this, so what am I going to do? I have never applied for a job. I am not confident in my vision and skills. ”
Creative director Gordon Richardson was an important force in the establishment of the London Collections Men and had worked at Topman for 16 years. He thought rose’s work was visionary. “Martin has this innate ability to understand the nature of youthful style. She always understood shapes and proportions and never pushed boundaries. Martin’s design will be worn by everyone in the near future. ”
All her collections are very personal, and her family has encouraged her to enter the fashion world. “I remember watching my brothers and sisters and Cousins prepare to go out. The club is my beginning. I started to go out when I was young, even what kind of clothes I like to see. ”
As a result, she grew up in south London, becoming part of a large Jamaican family, and her sister, michelle’s pug hogg and jean Paul gautier, put on their clothes and went out. “I have only one brother and sister, but I have dozens of Cousins. Many of them live in my house, so it’s a central hub. We always end there. “
Her parents knew that she would not have a traditional career even when she was young. “They are not very traditional. I mean, my mom is a nurse, my dad is an accountant, but since I was 13, they have mixed race relations, so it’s not traditional for them to choose how to live. ”
She studied fashion at Middlesex university a year after the camberwell school of art. “I did women’s wear, but women’s wear was always a menswear.” When she graduated in 2002, she started a T-shirt called LMNOP, which included the spouse Tamara Rothstein of the rose stylist Camberwell. But in 2007, Martine Rose’s label was born. She said that in the new talent, showing the fashion east, from getting funding for the initiative, and from now on fighting. After she had her two-year-old daughter, she rested for a season. Her second child was only seven weeks away, and as we spoke, he walked up and down in the arms of the rose’s studio manager – looking lovely and dignified. Ross apparently met her partner, and when he called her from the scaffolding, she struggled outside the studio and rolled the material into her car. Then he jumped off the scaffold and helped her out. They have been together ever since.
Although Martine Rose was her delight, working for Balenciaga was a bit of a game-changer. This is a very high-profile job in international fashion. “It all happened through the photographer Ollie Pearch,” she said. “We worked together and he mentioned Demna wanted to see me. We sent each other an admiring email, and when he got to valencia he asked me to go to Paris. I didn’t even know that balenciaga had done menswear. But doing so is a huge experience. I’m like, ‘oh, how can this be done? ‘”
Ross can be charming about her industry. She is pleased that men’s wear has some talent, a bit experimental, but how the mainstream is conflicted. “Fashion used to be an outsider. It’s a strange, strange business, people are ignoring it, there’s something special about it. Now it’s a multi-billion dollar industry, and I’ve never been mainstream, so it’s weird being part of it. ”
That’s not to say she doesn’t like her new role as the next big name in fashion. She is even enjoying more business knowledge about the industry. “Well, until recently, it felt like a very expensive hobby,” she says with a laugh. “There is no commercial element, so I don’t have to be involved. Maybe it’s defensive. I pushed it away. Now it’s interesting to see who’s selling and who’s selling. Business was creative – although my father called me an entrepreneur one day, I was ready to die, dad! He said it was a lovely thing, but I’m not Richard branson. ”
She may not be like branson, who has a lovely hand-painted sign for her brand. Was it her signature? “No, it was found in a vintage piece, and I found it signed by someone. Maybe I should tell people this is my cute script. My writing is terrible. ”
Nevertheless, her name will become more and more famous. My favorite name for using rose is the tie pin in this season, turning functional accessories into a conversation point. She nodded when I told her about it. “That’s my job, isn’t it? Let things flourish. “She smiled and sat in her bright new room with the bright future ahead of her.