Queen of fantasy

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Queen of fantasy

As the low helper squatted on the ground and took photos with purple snake shoes, the commanding editor rushed into the room and threw the young woman’s Mainbocher coat out. It didn’t occur to me that the assistant “immediately came back,” and whether the subordinates were fired because they didn’t accept them. No, she turned her experience into a blockbuster? Is. But it’s not what you think, not when you might think. That assistant not Lauren weiss berg (Lauren Weisberger), her first job done – the U.S. version of “Vogue” editor Anna Wintour (Anna Wintour slammed) mobile phone reply to Roman clef, then the film “the devil wears prada” (a shameful not loyalty “of things to do, creative director of Vogue, interesting Grace, Paddington (Grace Coddington), in her low-key memoirs” Grace “. Far from it: the office dog is the future movie star Ali MacGraw, who was an aide to Ms. Wintour’s legendary predecessor, Diana Vreeland.

“The Empress of Fashion” is a new, sensitive and multifaceted new book about “Vreeland” by Amanda Mackenzie Stuart. When Mainbocher bounced, she explained, Vreeland was working for her rival, Harper’s Bazaar, not for Vogue. Since the mid-1930s – since seeing dance at the Regis hotel and being considered her “pizazz”, it has been thought that it was created by friedland. At the fair, freeland was called “why not you?” Famous for its columns, the stream of consciousness is intended to lull women into their lives, creating a playful, complex style. Among her Suggestions: from central Europe back into the baroque porcelain furnace (it well placed in the vestibule parquet flooring), chenille earrings clip on emerald green soft mat chair, sitting room and behind a bugatti sports car mount elk pipi box. In 1962, Vreeland took the helm at Vogue. Her first question appeared in the next month, January, 1963, and 50 years ago.

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Diana freeland courtesy Diana friland.

At the time, McGraw did not win her role in “goodbye, Columbus” and “love story”, but the 59-year-old was chosen for decades. Stanley Donen wrote “dee-ahn” in the 1957 “Funny Face” (she gave her name in a gaulish way). In 1941, Tess hart, Kurt weill and IRA Gershwin’s Broadway musical “the woman in the dark,” inspired by her charm. But as early as 1918, the teenager Diana Dalziel had vowed to turn her eccentric daughter from a narcissistic socialite into a “girl.”

Who or what is this creature? In her diary, friedlander wrote that she had been “staring at girls to worship because they were the perfect thing. I’ve never found that girl or that woman. I’m the girl. “She said that if her mission didn’t work out, it would be a betrayal of herself. She never gave up the task. She’s editing mirador, and she urges her audience to believe that “the magic is real” because “that’s what you want it to be… And how to hope it becomes a reality. “But, in 1971, as the reverberation of the feminist youth quake rocked the popular notion of an ideal woman, Ms. Stewart wrote, freeland’s ideas seemed to be starting to look” cliched.”

Nearly 70, the widower and her in fashion fire, freeland proves that the past is as unvanquishable, resurrecting his own rise rose institute of clothing art at the metropolitan museum of art in New York. According to her colleague, journalist Bob Colacello, the guiding principle of her career is not to give people what they want, but to “give them something they don’t know they want”. (she died of a heart attack in 1989. One of the songs she sang at her memorial service was the Rolling Stones’ “you can’t always get what you want.”)

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“The way you have to learn… … Make yourself necessary “: grace coddington in 1974. Credit Willie Christie.

Vreeland’s documentary “eyes must travel” is currently being played in American cinemas. Its creator, Lisa Immordino Vreeland (wife of Alexander, the grandson of freeland), also edited a magnificent retrospective of her work. The pictures captured in “Diana freeland: eyes must travel” are still more attractive in the film. There is rarely a “conversation picture” that does more to give a proper impact on the visual image. Freeland’s highest achievement may be the enduring quality of her seemingly capricious voice – the ability to read, read and listen over and over again, without losing the juice.

If Diana Vreeland is the queen of fashion, then Anna Wintour, still the fashion editor, is called the Pope. The nickname in RJ cutler’s documentary “problems” in September, the filmmakers to fantasy and huge annual autumn fever this magazine version of the scene is going to be a high cliffs. The cover model’s terrible hair, actress sienna miller, can be salvaged? Thousands of dollars of photos will end up in the recycling bin? A few days before the printing press began rolling, could a shape-shifting photographer be persuaded to jump into the air – hang his heavy and expensive camera – to take a picture of a jumping model? The September issue proves that wintour is just as scary as Wieland.

The astonishing break-up of the documentary was Coddington, an airless welsh model turned fashion editor. At 71, a burly, white-faced man with long red hair, Coddington came to Wintour’s American “fashion” work in 1988. Throughout the film, she gulps and breathes, pleading defensively to defend her version of Vreeland’s “girl” to her powerful boss. Paddington in earlier for a demoralised colleague said: “you have to be more tough”, adding: “you have to learn how to overcome your own way, let yourself feel and make them necessary.” In her memoirs, however, coddington showed less ferocity, working with a variety of designers and photographers as a teenager in anglesey. Her love and marriage; And her 30-year relationship with French hairdresser Didier Malige. In fact, Coddington is more like a cat than a tiger, with a wide range of space devoted to her beloved domestic cat. In a sense, “grace” is like the diary of a woman, she to keep girls at all costs, but also has created a high-profile career – in fact, this is youth Diana every little almond cake ambition.

Fashion is playful, and its operations cannot be analyzed like the equations of physics. However, these books and matching film shows Diana freeland (Diana Vreeland), Anna Wintour (Anna Wintour slammed) and Grace Paddington (Grace Coddington) women’s fashion and hum. “You have to have that fashion story,” Coddington said in the September issue. “you know – specks or stripes,” “but I’m trying to make it secondary. We set up a fantasy around the girl. “

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